Pork in shirtsleeves

Beef Wellington is classic treatment of beef fillet, seared and wrapped in puff pastry before being baked. It’s a method that works well with boned grouse or wood pigeon, and also with pork fillet, trimmed of all the white membrane. There will be no gravy produced so either a crisp salad or a soft vegetable purée will be called for alongside.

Scraps of puff pastry are actually better than a pristine just-made confection for this dish. You want the crispness and crunch of a butter pu